C-P 40-80 Gallons

Rated 4.86 out of 5 based on 7 customer ratings
(7 customer reviews)


20 Years Warranty

Tested in Laboratory

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90 Money Back Guarantee

Made in North America


CORRO-PROTEC 40 | 80 is specially designed for all models of electric and gas water heaters with capacities ranging from 40 to 80 gallons.

By forming a protective layer on the tank walls and at its weak points, the CORRO-PROTEC 40 | 80 provides the water heater with permanent protection against corrosion. The system thus guarantees prolonged protection regardless of the water condition.

In the box:
Corro-Protec anode
Current rectifier 15mA
Installation guide

Technical sheet:
Diameter of the nets: ¾ ”
Height of the nets: ¾ ”
Total length of the anode: 12 inches
Weight: 1 lbs

7 reviews for C-P 40-80 Gallons

  1. Rated 5 out of 5

    Paul M. Seymour

    Our water in our new lake front home in VA that has well water smelled just horrible. We have high iron content and when you used the hot water it was pretty gross rotten egg smell. The hardest part of the instillation is getting out the old annode. I used a power driver and air compressor and it didn’t budge. Had to go to a breaker bar and a 3 foot gas pipe as an extension to break it free. I also had to cut the old annode to get it out. It was really long. Not a big deal just knotched it with a rotary tool then bent it in half just be careful you don’t drop the lower half back in the tank if you cut it in half to get the old one out. It’s been 6 days and the smell is totally gone. My recommendation if your doing this and your not a plumber make sure you have the proper socket a breaker bar and a way to cut the old annode if the ceiling is low in the place your water heater is located. You also may need to brace your water heater so it doesn’t twist. I used some fire wood logs and wedged mine against a close wall so as not to damage the pipes when breaking the old annode free. Many good YouTube videos from plumbers available to give you tips on removing your annode. As long as prepare properly for getting the old one out you will be very happy with this item.

  2. Rated 5 out of 5


    Very easy to install. Works as advertised.

    You need an impact driver, a 1 1/16″ socket to remove the old anode, a 1 3/8″ socket to install the Corro-Protec, plumbers tape, metal antioxidant, and a screwdriver or box cutter to clear away insulation.

    IMPORTANT: Before you start… Turn off the breaker to your water heater and turn off water to your water heater. Remove pressure from the tank using the pressure release valve. Use a bucket to collect the water as it will leak a significant amount. (I ran the hot water in my kitchen sink after cutting off the water to relieve initial pressure)

    First take the cap off the existing anode. Then you have to cut away insulation until you get to the head of the existing anode. Use your impact driver with the 1 1/16″ socket to remove the anode. Wrap the threads on the new anode with the plumbers tape. Make sure to wrap all of the threads four or five layers thick. Insert the Corro-Protec and tighten with the 1 3/8″ socket. (I did this one with a ratchet and not the impact driver as I did not want to over tighten) Attach the ground wire to a screw on the cover of your water heater. Squirt metal antioxidant into the female connecter for the Corro-Protec and attach to the metal piece that stick out of the top of the anode. Crimp with pliers once attached.

    Extra step that helps rid your hot water of that terrible smell…. Before you plug the new anode into an outlet, attach a hose to the bottom valve of your water heater. Run the hose outside and open the valve, draining your water heater. Turn the water back on to your water heater with the bottom valve open and run the water for 5-10 minutes until the water coming out of the hose is clean and clear. Shut the water off again and allow the tank to fully drain. Close the bottom valve. Turn the water back on to the water heater and let the tank fill. Turn the breaker back on. Plug the Corro-Protec into a 110v outlet. (I had to use an extension cord to reach an outlet). Go to each faucet in your house and run it on hot long enough to clear the lines of old water and air pockets.

    It was difficult getting my fingers in the hole to remove the old anode. So, I wrapped a piece of wire around the anode under the head to pull it out.

    All said and done this took me about 30 minutes. I came back to the house to check the water about 6 hours later and I couldn’t smell a thing!

    If I begin to smell the water again I will update this review. For now I am extremely pleased with the quick results!

  3. Rated 5 out of 5


    Before installing this unit we were doing a chlorine shock on our well every two weeks. Since installation, it has now been over three months and still no need to do a chlorine shock. Pretty simple unit to install. The problem was getting the old one out. The heater was in a corner, with pipes all around so it was very difficult to get leverage. Finally the neighbor came over with a industrial pneumatic wrench and that did the trick.

    Seven months on and we’ve had to do one shock treatment. Great product.

  4. Rated 5 out of 5



    I am a judge in rural Southeast Ohio and read the reviews to make better product choices. I had to write this review.

    The water at my deer camp comes from a hand dug stone lined well circa 1850.

    The HOT water had black particulate matter in it and smelled horrible. Totally unusable. I doubted this would work. We had tried every thing I could find to try to clear up the water. I shut off the water and drained the tank.(before doing so set gas to pilot on a gas water heater or electric off on an electric hot water heater) I removed the old anode rod. This is the only hard part. I used an impact. If you don’t have one see if your local rental place will rent you an electric impact with a 1 and 1/16 socket or use a breaker bar but have a buddy hold the tank or you will turn the tank and damage your plumbing. Pull the old rod out. Pour 4 pints of hydrogen peroxide from the drugstore into the hole where the old rod came from. Install the new powered anode (DONT PLUG IT IN) and fill the tank back up but leave ALL your hot water taps open to allow the peroxide to kill bacteria in all your hot water lines.When all the air has blown out of the tank and you have water flowing from all the taps close the taps. Plug in the unit. MAGIC !!! NO BLACK PARTICULATE AND NO SMELL. I let it sit overnight and tried it in the morning. No smell and no black water. My buddies could not believe it. Me either. As others have said (and I did not believe) this instantly cured the problem. If your cold water smells or is black this may not work but if your hot water has these issues you owe it to your family to try this. I am not a religious person but works like a MIRACLE!

    Will put a note on my calendar to update this review in 30 days

    OK it’s been 30 days now and the water is just like spring water.

  5. Rated 5 out of 5


    If you are looking at this product, then you have smelly hot water. Period. You’ve searched the internet and found lots of information, but you are unsure how much of it applies to your own situation due to the large numbers of variables involved. Plus, for whatever reason, you are reluctant to call in a professional. Yep, been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

    My scenario: my sister-in-law called last summer, asking for help with the water heater at her cottage. The cottage is actually a very small, two-bedroom year-round home, probably a bit over a hundred years old. And I should add that her cottage is about 75 miles away from where I live which means the entire process took awhile. The existing water heater had a slight leak. This sucker is certainly old enough to vote, might even be older. No problem. I headed to my local wholesaler and picked up a shiny new Rheem for her. Spent the better part of a day pulling out the old heater, re-working the wiring and the piping a bit and putting in the new one. Filled the heater, turned the power on, cleaned the pipe scuz out of the faucet strainers and called it good. And in retrospect here is where I made a mistake. Took the old heater to a scrapyard and got around $4.00 for it. What I should have done was removed the anode rod from the old unit. I suspect there wasn’t one in there at all, but I’ll never know.

    A few weeks later she mentioned her water smelled. Nuts.

    More background: I have a pole barn with one of those little point-of-service water heaters for the sink. Almost right from the start, I had smelly water out there, but since I was only using the hot water for cleaning, I ignored it. Not that it matters, but the heater is on a timer and it is only on a very few hours a week. But eventually I had enough and pulled it out. The anode rod was almost completely consumed. Ordered another from good ol’ Amazon. When it arrived, I thoroughly cleaned out the inside of it with alcohol, put the new rod in and re-connected it. Within days the hot water stunk again. Since this is a family oriented site, let’s just say I said “oh drat.” Back to the internet. There is mention of aluminum used as an anode, but lots of cautions due to ingestion of the material. I wasn’t worried about that since I only use that hot water for cleaning and not cooking. But there are no aluminum rods available for my little heater due to it being a somewhat specialized product. Being the somewhat creative guy I am, I picked up a 1/2″ diameter length of aluminum rod from the hardware store, drilled and tapped it for 8-32, stuck it in the heater and ALL water problems have disappeared. Yay me.

    Back to the sister-in-law’s cottage. I read a whole bunch of stuff regarding aluminum vs. magnesium vs. powered-anodes vs. no anode at all. I just did not feel qualified enough to make a decision for her. She wanted to stay away from the aluminum ones as she would be using the hot water for cooking. I started pricing the powered rods and we were looking at $250 to $350. I really hate spending other people’s money for them if not absolutely necessary. So I suggested she call a local plumber who may have more experience with the water in her area. Did I mention this is well water? I should have. Anyway, he gave her the usual song-and-dance about how busy he was, but offered to remove the existing rod altogether. He couldn’t do it, but he would send his son out. Well, this was almost a disaster. The son apparently spent 3 hours and was unable to remove the rod. No idea why. Remember I’m 75 miles away. OK, so much for that idea. She tried calling a professional and it didn’t work. So now it is back to me.

    By this time, winter has arrived in the mitten-shaped peninsula of Michigan and the cottage was shut down for the duration. Earlier this year I did another search for the problem and this time found the Corro-Protec rod for a much more reasonable price. Asked the sister-in-law if she was willing to try it and she agreed. Ordered the kit and about a month ago went out to install it. I came loaded for bear remembering the son of the trained professional couldn’t budge the existing rod. I drained the heater completely, which wasn’t necessary for this job, but seems the recommendation now is to put water heaters in shallow pans. So drained and disconnected the heater and moved it out of the way. Set the pan in place, wrestled the heater into it and reconnected. Then tried extracting the existing rod. I have to explain I do have a 3/4″ drive socket wrench set with a breaker bar that is a full 39″ long, but no way did I need that much reefing force to bust it loose. It came right out, no problem whatsoever. I poured in 4 quarts of peroxide to disinfect the heater, then screwed the new rod in. Refilled the heater, turned it on, purged the lines and called it good.

    Sister-in-law called last weekend to report she was opening up the cottage and had virtually no water pressure, either hot or cold. Argh! I should have cleaned the faucet strainers. Yesterday I went over there and sure enough the strainers were clogged with pipe scuz. Cleaned them out and all is well. And finally, here is the point: after about a month of sitting there, I am relieved to tell you there are NO odors in the water.

    I love the product. Of course, we have no way of telling how long the product will last at this point, so stay tuned should something come up in the future. Will this product solve your particular problem? No idea. But it is a more reasonably priced alternative that might be worth exploring.

  6. Rated 4 out of 5


    Our well water is pretty sulfurous and we have a chlorine injection system and carbon filter that takes care of it, but our hot water continued to smell and got worse and worse over the last year. It got especially bad after we got a new water softener and one month ago a new water heater after the old one started leaking. After weeks of showering in extremely stinky egg water I finally read about anode rods and ordered this Corro-Protec product as well as this TEKTON 15355 1/2-Inch Drive by15-Inch Breaker Bar and DEWALT 1/2″ 6 PT Deep Socket 1 1/16 We have a State water heater and it turned out to be extremely hard to take the old rod out. First I took the plastic cap that said “ANODE” off the top and there was foam insulation below. I started digging into the foam insulation with knives and finally found the top of the anode rod over 3 inches deep! It was a lot of work to clean it all out as I didn’t want any foam pieces to fall into the tank. Unfortunately the top of the rod was misaligned with the hole and the deep socket was barely long enough to reach the top of the anode rod, but with a lot of brute force and bending some of the metal outside of the water heater I was able to take the old rod out. The thing was completely covered in white slimy stuff, which I figured were sulphur bacteria, but I am not sure. I was surprised at how covered it was as it is a brand-new heater that was just installed a month ago. Putting the new rod in didn’t go very well. For some reason the top of the Corro-Protec rod is 1 3/8″ instead of the standard 1 1/16″ and just barely fit into the hole. I had ordered a 1 3/8″ socket from Amazon, but I couldn’t use it as the hole in the top of the water heater was not big enough. I used groove-joint pliers to try and turn it around as many times as possible, but the hole was so deep it was difficult to grab a hold of it. After I couldn’t move it anymore I hoped that it was secure and put water back in the tank (which I had drained) and turned everything back on. It is unbelievable, but the smell is completely gone!! We are so happy! For the first time in as long as I can remember I took a shower this morning that wasn’t stinky. So it was definitely the old anode rod that was causing our problems. Of course, just taking out the rod completely and putting nothing back would have had the same result, but with this electric rod my tank will hopefully last longer. So I’m super happy with this purchase. The only reason I gave it 4 stars is because they made the thing 1 3/8″, which made it really hard to install. The top is just plastic, so it seems to me that they could have just made it the standard 1 1/16″ and then it would have fitted into the hole easier and I wouldn’t have had to buy the extra socket. I also don’t understand why water heater manufacturers make it so hard to reach the anode rod as it should be something that is periodically checked. The way I had to dig through 3 inches of foam to find the rod, that was even misaligned with the hole, was a bit ridiculous.

  7. Rated 5 out of 5


    We dug a new rural well in March, 2016. Repeated testing showed the water to be clear of any contaminants, including sulphur. However, after several months of use, the hot water in the house developed a very strong sulphuric odor that persisted and became even stronger over time. My husband installed this titanium anode to replace the aluminum anode in our water heater and we have noticed no odor since. The change was immediate.

    I will say the replacement installment took about five hours. We have a two-year-old Whirlpool electric water heater. My husband expected replacement to be simple. However, he first discovered extra-thick insulation he had to cut through. Next, the old aluminum anode would not come out of the hole: it seemed to have a large anchor attached to the bottom, too large to exit the hole on the top of the water heater. He knocked this chunk off the bottom of the old rod, losing a screwdriver into the water heater in the process. When he removed the old rod it appeared that the outer surface of the rod had melted into a molten glob attached to the bottom. That glob is also still at the bottom of the tank, with the lost screwdriver. He also had to cut out a larger hole in the top of the water heater to accommodate the new titanium rod. Though the exchange was quite an ordeal, the Corro-Protec titanium rod immediately eliminated the sulphur odor in our hot water.

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